Cosmetics for Women of Color

by Valerie Gladstone — September 12, 2007

My friends of color say finding the right makeup can be tough. Almost everything in the stores is for white women. Apparently the model Iman used to have to mix her own foundation when she was on fashion shoots. Eventually she started her own cosmetic line, which is available at www.imancosmetics.com. But there are ways around the problem other than starting your own line. Below I list cosmetic companies and shops that carry products for women of color and some tips on how to use them.

The key to perfect-looking skin for darker skin tones is finding the correct color foundation and then adjusting it to different areas of the face. That may mean using more than one color. As you do this, you can fine-tune different areas of the face to make your skin appear even and smooth. After that, makeup for dark skin is easy. All shades of blush, including pastels like the palest pinks and brights like orange and red, look great on dark skin. So if you're drawn to a certain color, go for it--as long as your foundation color is right.

For African-American Skin:
For African-American women, the highest pigmentation exists at the upper lip and chin, and their biggest complaint is usually that their skin looks ashy, green, or gray. So, the most important thing is to apply a foundation color from chin to neck that is bright enough to eliminate any green-blue. You might try a transparent brown with peachy orange undertones and a minimum of titanium [a white ingredient used as sunscreen]. Titanium can settle at the top of the skin and make it appear ashier. Work with a minimum of two different foundations--one for the chin and upper lip (from nose down) and one from nose up.

For Indian Skin:
The biggest concern of Indian women is usually dark circles under their eyes. To correct this, you need extra moisture under the eye coupled with light coverage with an opaque golden-yellow-orange concealer. A touch of mauve works well for women with more red in their skin tone. But overall, yellow is what keeps the area highlighted. And because Indian women have more yellow in their skin, it's the most natural-looking choice. Consider products such as Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Enhancer in SX11 for Indian skin with more yellow and SX13 for skin tones with a bit more red, because it's a warmer, rosier tone ($45 at www.kevynaucoin.com).

For Latina Skin:
Latina skin can appear too yellow or have a yellow-green cast. To slightly neutralize it, add a bit of yellow concealer with a touch of pink. This way, skin will look healthier and livelier.

Bronzers Are Universally Flattering

Darker-skinned women look great in sheer bronzers. Apply a bronzer with a slight shimmer to your forehead and temples and to the highest part of your cheekbones for a luminous look. You can apply a bronzer without shimmer to the lower part of your cheekbones and to your jaw for depth and contour.

Products:

• Giella custom-blended bronzers ($50 at www.Giella.com)
• Interface Cosmetics--Oil-free foundation in colors like sable, mink, toasted almond; pressed powders in amber or Moroccan sand ($18.50 at www.interfacebeauty.com)
• Bobbi Brown Moisturizing Foundation--Colors such as honey, almond, chestnut, golden, walnut, and espresso ($45 at www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com or www.sephora.com)
• Black Opal Cosmetics--A wide range of foundations in many colors ($8.65 at www.blackopalbeauty.com)
• M.A.C--A wide range of foundations and concealers ($28 at www.maccosmetics.com and www.sephora.com)
• Laura Mercier--Laura Mercier designs her foundations to enhance the natural undertones of the skin; try her SC-4 or SC-6 secret camouflage to disguise blemishes and for a flawless, even finish ($42 at www.lauramercier.com or www.sephora.com)