At Home Peels

by Valerie Gladstone — February 11, 2008

Getting facials on a regular basis can be expensive, yet who doesn't want the fresh, clean look that they provide, and even nicer, the radiance. But at-home peels can almost do the trick. Here are the ins and outs of the process.

What is an at-home peel and what does it do?

These solutions typically consist of alpha hydroxy (glycolic, lactic, or fruit) acid or beta hydroxy (salicylic) acid, which, when smoothed over the skin, lifts off the top layer of cells and stimulates tightening and regeneration of tissues. Salicylic acid can penetrate the sebum in pores and consequently is more effective for oily and combination skin. Try pH Advantage 10/50 Exfoliating Pad.

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

Here are a few caveats. Many dermatologists have stopped doing peels because strong ones can burn and scar, and because you get better in-office results with micro-dermabrasion and non-ablative lasers. So the most important caveat is to be sure your peel contains only alpha or beta hydroxy acid, which is milder and doesn't penetrate as deeply as others, in concentrations of no more than 20 percent.

Any peel containing trichloroacetic acid or that causes visible peeling or flaking is too strong for at-home use. Try a small test on the side of your face before applying it all over. If your skin becomes irritated or flaky, the peel's too strong. If you have pigmentation problems (such as melasma during pregnancy), be very cautious because a peel can exacerbate them.

Also, the longer the product has been sitting in your medicine cabinet, the more variable its strength. Acids change over time; be sure to do a patch test before applying one you haven't used in a couple of months because it may have become stronger (or weaker). Many of the newer at-home peels also come with neutralizing solutions to be applied post-peel. You'll get the best results if you incorporate a peel into your regular skincare routine (following package directions about how often to use it) and always, always finish up with sunscreen.

Recommended at-home peels:

• Philosophy The Microdelivery Peel ($65 at Sephora.com)
• MD Skincare: Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel -- System includes Alpha Beta Peel Pads for Step 1 and Neutralizing System Pads for Step 2 (30 pads for $75 at Sephora.com)