Everything You Need to Know About Nail Care

by Valerie Gladstone — February 13, 2008

Having good looking nails matters to most women as much as healthy skin and attractive hair. But knowing right from wrong on how to care for them is not that easy, with salons and advertisers often pushing just the things that aren't good for them. Here are some tips gathered from experts that should put you on the right track.

• Don't cut or manipulate cuticles--Whether you have your nails professionally groomed or do them yourself, the number one recommendation is to leave your cuticles alone. The cuticle is the natural barrier to fungus and bacteria--and once you breach that, protection is lost. This will not only make cuticles look worse--red, swollen, and ragged--but may also land you a nasty infection that harms the nail bed and leads to permanent nail damage. And while cutting cuticles holds the most potential for harm, pushing them back can cause problems as well.
• Avoid nail hardeners--A lot of them do more damage than good. These products are not studied clinically, so most claims are not backed up by science. Healthy nails are flexible nails so to keep yours from breaking, avoid anything that makes them more brittle.
• Moisturize the nail bed and the cuticle--Although there's little medical data showing that moisturizing the nail bed will help nails grow, it can make cuticles look better and help protect nails from breaking due to a lack of moisture. Putting oil around the cuticle helps moisturize the entire nail, which reduces chipping, cracking, and splitting.
• Try supplements of biotin--In several studies, supplements of biotin (a member of the vitamin B family) increased nail thickness and prevented splitting and breaking. To get the effect, it's vital that you take the prescription strength, therapeutic level of 2.5 milligrams daily.
• Gelatin doesn't work--Contrary to the old wives' tales, gelatin doesn't strengthen nails nor do supplements or nail products containing calcium, yeast, or fluoride.
• Cut down on professional manicures--Those who indulge regularly are the most likely to suffer from dry, brittle nails. It could be the exposure to more chemicals and harsher ingredients. Also women who get manicures frequently suffer from chronic nail bed infections, evidenced by puffy, reddened areas around the base of the nail. One way to reduce problems is to take your own tools to the manicure to ensure a healthier experience.
• Avoid acetone-based polish removers--If you have brittle nails, acetone nail polish remover strips the nails, causing them to become brittle.
• Avoid rough emery boards--Those old-fashioned orange emery boards are too harsh for nails, causing small fissures and cracks that lead to breakage and tears. Instead, file nails with a smooth, fine file and don't saw back and forth. File in one direction only, and do it slowly and evenly to reduce risk of breakage.
• Don't overdo hand washing and limit contact with cleaning chemicals--If you have to wash your hands a lot, use moisturizer as often as possible. When doing housework or laundry, minimize contact with harsh chemicals, including dishwashing liquid, by wearing rubber gloves whenever possible.
• Change shampoos--Sometimes shampoos don't agree with your nails, particularly detergent shampoos, or those for oily hair, which are designed to strip lipids and other natural oils from the scalp.
• Choose nail tips over full extensions--Nail extensions are bad news for nails, frequently leading to fungal or even bacterial infections and sometimes to permanent damage. If you must wear nail extensions, opt for just tips. The potential for damage is less because the surface area covered is smaller.
• Remember toenails count, too--Everything that applies to your fingernails applies to your toenails, which may be even more prone to problems due to careless pedicures. If you get regular pedicures, take your own instruments and never let the tech dig under the nail or around the cuticle. Moreover, cutting toenails at an angle--instead of straight across--increases the risk of ingrown toenails, which can be painful and sometimes develop into an infection.