Secrets to Applying Eyeshadow

by Valerie Gladstone — February 22, 2008

No, you don't just smear it on. Well, of course, you can. But that's what it will look like - smeared. Blending is key. Use three different colors: The base, usually a very light taupe, and a highlighter for the crease, and a main color for the lid. To get them to look as if they merge into each other, start light then go darker. Brush the base color, apply the lid color, and then apply the highlighter. Also, don't be too heavy-handed or you'll have to start over. Extra tip: Practice makes perfect. Play with your makeup a few days before a big event.

Tips

• Choose shadows that make the color of your eyes pop. Matching the color of your eyes with a shadow actually brings the color out (think blue shadow on blue eyes). At the same time, contrasting colors make eyes pop too (a deep jeweled blue shadow on deep brown eyes).
• Never cover your brow bone with deep color. You don't want the drama too much shadow brings. Apply shadow up to the brow bone but don't apply shadow on the bone unless it's a neutral color or a highlighter.
• Highlighter can make or break your look. When applying dark shadow to the crease of your eye, be careful to blend only on the outside edge. Get too close to the eye and you'll cause your eyes to look teeny and beady.
• Set shadow with a great base. Primers help set makeup that stays for hours. The secret to keeping shadow in place for hours is a shadow base. Almost everyone makes them but MAC Paints is especially good.
• Shimmer is hot, but accents wrinkles. It makes eyes really pop, but it also highlights heavy lids, lines, and wrinkles. A great look for shimmer is to create a nude lid, but apply a bit of gold shimmer to the browbone.
• Smokey is great but keep it to the lid and just under the lower lashline. Don't extend color above the crease.
• Pair shadow with red lips. Remember the beauty rule: don't play up the eyes and lips at the same time. If you're going for dramatic red lips (never out of fashion), cover unsightly blue lines on lids with a concealer or shadow primer and then keep eyeshadow light.
• Make eyes brighter with light shadow. A dot of pale shadow or pencil on the inside of the eye near the tear duct will make eyes look brighter.
• Go for color. Taupe and lavender look great on all eye colors. Also consider mixing shades if you bought a color that's just too bold for you. Mixing an electric blue with taupe can turn out the most perfect color.

Good Buys at Sephora.com:

• iQuad Eyeshadow Compact The Works -- Convenient, travel-friendly collection includes four earthy shades of 100 percent pure bareMinerals. It also has two professional brushes for contouring and lining. Set includes bareMinerals Queen Phyllis Glimmer, Twig Eyeshadow, Bubbly Eyeshadow, Retro Liner Shadow, Mini Liner Shadow Brush, and Mini Contour Shadow Brush ($30).
• Fairytale Life -- A makeup kit showcasing LORAC's Fairytale Life Collection, a range of hues. Set includes eight eyeshadows, two blushes, two lip polishes, a Lotsa Lash Mini Fiber Mascara in Black, and a double-ended eyeshadow/liner ($52).
• The Laura Mercier Eye Palette contains perfect colors for creating classic eyes. The palette contains four eyeshadow shades and a deep black eye liner. A double-ended eye color and flat eye liner brush is also included ($40).