The Excellent Egg

by Stacy Pearl — March 26, 2007

It used to be an egg was just an egg. Brown or white, this simple but nutritious staple came in different sizes and could be cooked up in all manner of ways. But a glance at the egg cartons in your supermarket nowadays reveals a confusing array of options--from organic or vegetarian to omega-3-enhanced or free-range.

From a nutritional standpoint, whatever the packaging, eggs are an excellent choice, the best protein money can buy and a good source of phosphorous, folate, and vitamins B-2, B-12, A, and D. Recent research has largely debunked the link between eggs and high cholesterol, but to be on the safe side, boiling or poaching is generally recommended over eggs fried in butter or other fats.

Eggs will keep for up to two weeks, refrigerated at 45 degrees Fahrenheit. If an egg is fresh, it will sink to the bottom of a pan of water; an older egg will stand up on one end; and a really stale egg will float. If you’ve ever failed at making poached eggs, it’s probably not your fault—old eggs fall apart in poaching liquid even if you add a touch of vinegar.

According to the Egg Nutrition Board, "white-shelled eggs are produced by hens with white feathers and white ear lobes. Brown-shelled eggs are produced by hens with red feathers and red ear lobes.” There’s no difference in taste or nutrition between the two, but brown eggs are more expensive because the chickens that lay them eat more than those that give us white eggs. Among the notable brown-egg breeds are the Rhode Island Red, the New Hampshire, and the Plymouth Rock—all larger birds that require more food.

Beyond basic brown and white, brought to your supermarket from factory farms that many food ethicists find objectionable, your choices today may include:

• Organic eggs, laid by hens that have been fed a special mix guaranteed to be free of pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. The price will be higher, but the nutritional content is identical to that of the commercially grown egg. To be sure you’re getting what you paid for, look for organic certification on the box. 


• Vegetarian eggs, from chickens fed pure plant matter with no animal by-products. These also have the same nutritional content of conventional eggs. 


• Omega-3-enhanced eggs, created by including a percentage of flax in the hens’ diet, which boosts their eggs’ level of omega-3 fatty acid, a substance that lowers blood triglycerides and is important in maintaining a healthy heart. 


• Vitamin-enhanced eggs, the result of increasing the level in certain supplements in the chickens’ feed. Typical additions include vitamin E, folate, lutein, vitamin B-6, and vitamin B-12. 


• Free-range and free-run eggs, often confused, are not the same thing. The former are laid by hens with access to nesting boxes, open floor space, perches, and outdoor runs. Free-run eggs come from chickens allowed to roam in the barn, and though it’s perceived as the most humane of all ways to produce eggs, there’s an added safety risk because the bird can come into contact with droppings and dirt. Collecting eggs quickly and efficiently is also more of a challenge.


•  Processed eggs (not in their shell but in paper containers) in frozen or dried form are another option readily available in supermarkets. These are broken by massive machines in a factory, then pasteurized for an extended shelf life.

As if that weren’t enough choices, you still have to consider the size and grade of eggs. Eggs are sized by weight in ounces per dozen, ranging from 21 ounces for medium eggs to 30 ounces per -dozen jumbo eggs. Most recipes call for large or extra-large eggs, so if you decide to use a smaller egg, be sure to compensate. Eggs are graded AA, A, or B. Because of the speed and efficiency of the egg-producing and processing business, there’s very little to no perceivable difference in the quality between AA's and A's. Grade B eggs usually contain some flaw in the appearance of the shell, and are usually used for pre-cracked products or high-volume food-service operations.

Even though your fridge may come with a handy door space for storing eggs, this is never a good place to stash perishables—items in the door can suffer from fluctuations in temperature, and eggs are more likely to pick up odors from other foods. The best way to store them is in their original cardboard container on a shelf in the refrigerator.

Coddled Eggs on Smoked Paprika Mash Topped with Shaved Manchego

A dish so elegant you can serve it for a fancy brunch or light supper.

2 tablespoons butter
1 pound Yukon gold potatoes peeled and cut into 1 -inch cubes
1/2 cup finely chopped onions
2  Tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon smoked sweet Spanish paprika (available in specialty shops)
6 large eggs
6 Tablespoons heavy cream
¼ lb. Manchego cheese
2 Tablespoons chopped chives

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Butter six ¾-cup ramekins and set aside.

3. Boil potatoes in salted water till tender , about 15 minutes.

4. While potatoes are cooking, sauté onion in olive oil in a sauté pan over low to medium heat till golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add smoked paprika to onions and cook 2 minutes more.

5. Drain water from potatoes and place in bowl and mash. Add onions and season to taste.

6. Divide mash into prepared ramekins and smooth top.

7. Carefully crack 1 egg in each ramekin, and spoon 1 Tablespoon cream over each egg. Top each with a few shavings of Manchego.

8. Place ramekins in a 13 x 9 x 2-inch metal pan and pour in enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake till egg whites are set and yolk is still soft, about 17 minutes.

9. Remove from baking pan and sprinkle tops with chopped chives. Serve immediately.

Stacy Pearl is a senior editor of WiredBerries.