Searching for New Methods to Test Cosmetics

by Valerie Gladstone — February 20, 2008

In the region where fragrances have been made since the Renaissance, scientists in Provence, France, are working to develop biological tools to test cosmetics with new alternatives before a European ban on animal testing comes into effect in March 2009. The looming ban is bringing together agencies with the world's two other largest cosmetic markets -- the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Ministry of Health in Japan.

As the deadline approaches, European regulators issue periodic tallies of the number of laboratory animals spared by new alternatives for all types of industrial purposes. Part of the pressure for new tests also stems from additional legislation, also known as Reach, that requires companies to develop safety data over the next 11 years for 30,000 chemicals, raising the specter of more animal testing. The actual number of animals tested for cosmetics products is small compared with medical or educational uses, but still the tally grew 50% in Europe, according to the European commission report, to 5,571 animals, from 2002 to 2005. Rabbits, mice, rats, and guinea pigs are the main animals used in testing.

Much of that testing was taking place in France but it is also in Provence where scientists are now gathering to work on alternative testing research, among other methods, developing artificial skin. The stakes are high. Europe is the leading market, and it also exports more than $23.4 billion worth of cosmetics every year. U.S. trade to Europe amounts to nearly $2 billion a year, about 7% of all cosmetics purchased by Europeans. In third place is Japan, with total cosmetic sales last year of $16 billion.

While one can regret the slowness with which this legislation is taking place, there is also reason to applaud such a huge business learning how to be more humane.