Pasta per Tutti

by Laura Donnelly — March 5, 2007

Without a doubt, pasta is the most versatile of foods. In its simplest form, it is the dish often requested by harried parents in a restaurant: "Just a little butter and Parmesan on it, please." Soothing, tasty, not too adventurous (no greenery!), it's a surefire kid pleaser. In a more glamorous guise, pasta can be served in a silken sauce, perhaps with fragrant white truffles shaved reverently at the table by solemn waiters. It's the perfect vehicle for spicy, lusty flavors (puttanesca), fresh shellfish (lobster fra diavolo), early spring vegetables (primavera), or any meats from ground veal to wild boar.

There's not much point in arguing over who invented pasta. Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci didn't invent paint either, but they sure figured out what to do with it once they got their hands on some. The same can be said for Italy. Some form of pasta was being consumed in Asia in 2000 B.C., but the Italians have elevated pasta to an art form.

Long ago, pasta was probably being developed independently in various parts of the globe because grains were the main starch of different diets. The grains were ground into a paste for gruel or made into some form of bread. Most likely, millet and rice were used in China and durum wheat in Italy. At some point, this gruel or paste was laid out flat to dry (thus preserving it almost indefinitely) and then boiled and seasoned at a later time.

As with all truly great Italian cooking, the quality and freshness of your ingredients, and the respect you show them, are key to your dish's success. Please, please use real Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and freshly grate it before serving. As for the fresh vs. dried pasta argument, I prefer the dried Italian brands, such as DeCecco and Barilla.

For the coming week, we have some easy light pasta dishes, a special occasion pasta, and, since this is such a versatile international food, we have a "made-a-little-bit-healthier" kugel pudding.

"Dove 'è pasta, c'è speranza" ("Where there's pasta, there's hope"). Buon appetito!

Angel Hair Pasta with Crabmeat and Asparagus

Our first pasta dish of the week has a small amount of crème fraîche to give it creaminess without the calories and fat. If crabmeat is too prohibitively expensive, substitute shrimp (which can cook in the sauce the last four minutes of cooking) and add some lemon zest and juice to the dish.

Serves 4

2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1/2 cup sundried tomatoes, rehydrated if dried, drained if in oil, julienned
2 cups chicken stock or clam juice
1/4 cup crème fraîche
Salt and pepper
12 ounces dried angel hair pasta
8 ounces fresh jumbo lump crabmeat
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tablespoons fresh basil leaves, chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 lbs. fresh asparagus tips, cut into 3-inch lengths, cooked al dente

1. Bring large pot of water to boil, season with salt.

2. In large skillet, melt butter and oil together. Sauté shallots and garlic till just golden, stir in tomatoes, stock, and Sauté. Season with salt and pepper, then reduce by half.

3. When sauce has reduced, cook pasta till al dente. Drain it and add it to skillet with sauce, along with the crabmeat. Toss well, but gently, to heat through and coat pasta thoroughly.

4. Remove from heat, stir in cheese, basil, and parsley. Serve pasta on top of asparagus tips.