Perfect Pies

by Laura Donnelly — May 7, 2007

"Easy as pie!" they say. Easy as pie? Whoever came up with that expression never baked a pie. The filling must be prepared and seasoned properly. The success of the crust relies on so many factors, including some you can't even control, like the humidity in the air that day. The flour to fat ratio, oven temperature, type of pan used...are you discouraged yet? Why, as little as 1/2 teaspoon of water can make the difference between a light flaky crust and a heavy sodden one. But have no fear. A little science lesson, some great recipes, and some practice will make you an expert pie baker. Take down your pans!

There are three basic pastry styles. Crumbly pastry, such as short pastry or pâte brisée, comes apart in small irregular bits. Flaky pastry (like American pie crust) should come apart in small irregular thin flakes. Laminated pastries include phyllo, strudel, and puff pastry and are constructed of large separate very thin layers that shatter into small delicate shards.

Frankly, you can use all-purpose flour for pie dough but it is best to seek out pastry flour, which is lower in protein. The type of fat you use will greatly affect the final product. It is the fat (comprising about 1/3 of the dough) that gives pie crust that delicious mouthfeel. Generally, any fat or oil can be worked into a dough, but if you want it to be flaky, you must use a fat that is solid but malleable at room temperature such as butter, lard, or vegetable shortening. Shortening is the easiest to work with and gives the best texture and is popular with many bakers. Butter, which is at an ideal temperature when chilled, gives more flavor, but contains some moisture and is trickier to work with if it warms up in the dough-making and rolling process. This is why you will always see instructions for pie dough recommending cold butter, ice water, a cool marble surface for rolling and chilling dough for a few hours after you have made it and before you bake it. The recipe for pie crust I'm going to give you uses butter and shortening, and it is prepared in a food processor because I am a lazy chicken myself when it comes to messing with this complicated chemistry!

Another important consideration is the type of pan you use. Shiny pans reflect a lot of the oven's radiant heat away from the crust, slowing down the cooking. Black pans absorb the heat, speeding it up. Clear glass allows it to pass right through and heat crust directly. Thin pans conduct heat unevenly, so your best bet is to use a heavier gauge metal or ceramic pan which transmits the heat evenly to the pastry.

Pies are baked (or are at least started) at a relatively high temperature so the dough heats through and sets quickly. Otherwise, the dough just kind of melts and slumps before the starch gets hot enough to absorb the water and set the structure. To solve the soggy-bottom problem (common with moist fruit pies), you can brush egg wash on the bottom crust before filling, layer it with a coating of crumbs, or pre-bake the crust, and brush a bit of jam on it. (This method is best for pre-baked pie crusts that will be filled with a custard or pudding.)

To thicken fillings, add a few tablespoons of flour or cornstarch depending on how juicy the fruit is. Logically, apples will use less, berries more. For stricter guidelines, follow specific recipes in a good cookbook. The following recipes are some of my favorites, and if this pie crust doesn't work for you, I will come over to your house and show you how to do it!

Pie Crust

This is the best and easiest pie-crust recipe I have ever seen. Double the recipe and freeze some of the discs of dough for later  use. This is also excellent for quiche.

Enough for a double crust 8- or 9-inch pie pan

2 cups pastry flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon sugar
10 Tablespoons butter
5 Tablespoons shortening
3 and 1/2 Tablespoons ice water

1. Place flour, salt, sugar , and butter in bowl of food processor. Pulse five times, very briefly, just 2 or 3 seconds each time. Add  the shortening and ice water and pulse again about 4 times, or just until the dough starts to come together.

2. Divide dough into two pieces.  Mold each piece of dough into round flat discs. Cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 2 to 3 hours before rolling.