Barbecue Basics

by Laura Donnelly — June 18, 2007

I don't know a lot about barbecue, but I know what I like. Some people believe you have to be Southern, or from Kansas City, or even that you have to be a man to know how to barbecue. Well, that's just plain silly. We could get into a whole discussion about direct heat and indirect heat; charcoal versus gas; alderwood, pecan, and mesquite wood chips; tools; equipment; safety; wind direction; etc. I would love to write a whole column on barbecued bluefish or rosemary and garlic-studded butterflied leg of lamb. But I'm just going to tell you what I know and love and throw in a few tips.

First of all, barbecuing and grilling are two different methods of cooking. Barbecuing generally means larger, tougher, cuts of meat such as pork shoulder or brisket, slow-cooked over indirect heat. In the good old days, this might be a whole goat.

Grilling is best for vegetables, fish, chicken, and smaller cuts of meat that can take a searing and cook quickly over direct flame. As for the charcoal versus gas grill argument, I prefer charcoal for flavor. But at the same time, I am envious of my friends who can walk out onto their covered patio on a rainy or snowy evening, flip a switch, and voila, they are ready to cook in ten minutes.

Don't even think about lighter fluids or those chemically treated easy-to-light briquets. They impart a hideous flavor and should only be used by your pyromaniacal friends at your next beach bonfire.

A Weber grill, hardwood charcoal, chimney starter, a grill brush for cleaning (in a pinch you can use a big wadded-up piece of heavy duty aluminum foil), a fine mesh grill for small items, a fireproof oven mitt, and a spray bottle with water for flare-ups are all the basics you need.

Lemon Herb Chicken

This is a great recipe, best made with small chickens or game hens. Try different green-herb combinations in the marinade, like dill, parsley, basil, or cilantro. Be sure to marinate the chicken for 24 hours, if possible.

Serves 4

2 whole lemons, scrubbed clean, ends cut off, then thinly sliced and seeds removed. Do not peel.
8 cloves garlic
1 cup herb leaves of your choice, I like cilantro and chives
2 Tablespoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup olive oil

2 small chickens (poussins), split in half and flattened

1. Purée lemons, garlic, herbs and salt and pepper in blender. Slowly add olive oil until well blended and has made a kind of thick paste. You might not use the whole cup of olive oil.

2. Place chickens in large Ziploc plastic bag with marinade. Squeeze out most of the air so chickens are mostly covered with pasty marinade. Refrigerate overnight.

3. Prepare grill and cook chickens over medium hot flame about four inches from the heat source about 10 minutes per side. This will flare up a bit due to oil and fat from chicken skin. I usually close the grill lid and open top vents to get this under control.

4. Remove from grill when done and let sit for five minutes. Serve with extra wedges of lemon.